The electricity situation is ridiculous now. I know we’ve faced this kind of shortage before, but it stings harder every time it happens. So, it’s easy to understand why some are looking for portable power stations to keep their shiny new Starlink kits running all day.
We’ve already talked about how much power a Starlink kit uses:
- The Starlink Standard Kit (Gen 3) consumes 75-100W.
- The Starlink Mini Kit consumes 25-40W.
Some users report that power usage spikes to around 100W only during boot-up and when searching for a signal. Once it’s locked on, many say the load typically drops to around 55W, which would be great for a battery-powered Starlink setup. However, it’s safer to plan for 100W usage just in case.
That said, there are instances where power consumption can exceed these numbers. Under peak conditions, especially in harsh weather, consumption may rise slightly above the usual range.
For example, when it’s too cold (which probably isn’t an issue here in Zimbabwe), the Starlink equipment’s built-in heating mechanism activates. When it’s too hot, the cooling system kicks in. Both of these increase power consumption.
Battery Life
If you’re using a regular car battery to power your Starlink, here’s what you can expect.
A typical car battery has about 576Wh of capacity. You’ll need an inverter to convert this to AC power, and most inverters are around 85% efficient. This means you can expect around 12-18 hours of power using the Mini Kit, or 5-9 hours with the Standard Kit.
However, car batteries aren’t designed for this kind of use, so you might want to consider investing in a deep cycle battery and inverter setup. These batteries can have capacities of 1,200-2,400Wh, which would give you 2-4 times the runtime of a car battery.
For example, Union Hardware sells the Fortu deep cycle battery for about $358, which has a capacity of 2,400Wh (12V, 200Ah). You can shop around for similar batteries with these specs, or even cheaper ones with 1,200Wh.
You’ll also need an inverter. If you’re only powering your Starlink, you can opt for a smaller inverter. You can pair one with the deep cycle battery for less than $200. For instance, a 12V/600VA inverter costs around $120.
Example Setup
With that battery and inverter setup, here’s an estimate of how long you could run your devices. Let’s assume your Starlink uses 100W, and you plug in a few laptops and phones that draw an additional 200W.
With a 2,400Wh battery and 85% efficiency, you’d have: 2400Wh×0.85=2040Wh.
Dividing this by 300W gives you about 6.8 hours of usage.
Do remember that these estimates are theoretical and based on ideal conditions. In real-life scenarios, factors such as battery age, efficiency losses, inverter quality, and environmental conditions can affect the actual runtime and performance of your system.
Less Power-Hungry Routers
If you go with Econet’s SmartBiz, typical routers consume around 12-18W—significantly less than even the 25-40W of the Starlink Mini Kit.
However, if you also have devices that consume around 200W, the 82W difference from using a standard router would only add about 3 extra hours to your usage time.
Ask the Experts
What we’ve discussed is a barebones system that can keep your Starlink online. Otherwise, you could end up paying Elon Musk $30 or $50 a month, only to watch your little white dish gather dust on the roof.
If you want a proper battery and inverter setup, or even one powered by solar, talk to the experts. They’ll help you design a system that meets your needs.
You’ve already invested in the Starlink kit, so you might as well make sure you have the power to use it.
Also consider options like Portable Power Stations. They can be easier to deal with albeit more expensive per unit of power you get.
UPS Considerations
Some people are asking about UPSs. You don’t really need one.
A UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) is a device used to bridge the gap between power sources, such as when ZESA suddenly cuts out and you need to switch to solar or a generator. It provides protection for sensitive equipment and gives you time to switch power sources without damaging your devices.
However, if you already have a battery system in place, it’s simpler to keep Starlink connected directly to the battery. This way, there’s no need to switch between ZESA and battery power.
What’s your take? Cancel reply